Can
a port be at a higher altitude than 3,800 meters above the sea level?
TRIVIA
Mejibo is the euphoric shout of the native cochimis
at the begining of the harvest of pitahayas, a fruit of the
cactus family. |
In
the middle of the desert on the peninsula of Baja California in
Mexico, one finds the Mission of Saint Gertrudis La Magna, the meeting
point between the indigenous cochimi culture and European civilization
as represented by the Spanish missionaries.
Officially
founded in 1752 and located exactly in the middle of the peninsula,
the Mission of Saint Gertrudis La Magna served as a link between
the northern and southern missions. This paved the way for missionaries
to carry their purpose all the way to Northern California, where
they gave birth to many cities including the three most important
ports of the state of California, in the United States.
ANECDOTE
When the missionaries first introduced glass to make windows,
the native people would laugh at the sight of solid and
transparent walls. |
The
colonization of the peninsula and Northern California can only be
understood by looking at the combined effort between the Spanish
and the natives. They strove to establish themselves in a terribly
inhospitable climate marked by arid land, scarcity of water, and
the difficulties in communication and understanding between the
two cultures.
It
was under these conditions that the missionaries arrived at a tiny
fountain of water located slightly north of parallel 28, and where
the indigenous architect Andres Comanaji began constructing the
mission.
With
his own hands he built a chapel made of machimbre (a mixture of
sticks and mud), several bedrooms, a kitchen/dining room, and a
dispensary. A difficult and exhausting task for anyone and even
more so for this architect who was blind.
More
than walls and structures, however, there was life here, and
people, families, kids, indigenous people and missionaries,
who all shared the heat of labor and the coolness of repose...
P. Mario Menghini Pecci.
|
The
mission gave life to the region where they soon began cultivating
vines, wheat, corn, fig, and dates. The colonizers and the indigenous
cochimi were then able to join forces in developing the manufacture
of wine and honey, in learning professions, making dresses, tanning
hides, taking care of livestock, building roads, and learning to
speak, read, and write the Spanish language.
The
years went by, and thanks to the will of the Marquis of Villalpuente
to honor his wife Doña Gertrudis de la Peña, all of
the structures made of machimbre and adobe were rebuilt by using
quarry. These new structures were completed around 1796, and one
of them has been used as a temple ever since.
The
original single-walled bell tower, (precursor to the belfry), is
still standing 78 meters away from the buildings and is unique in
the entire peninsula, having three bells from the period.
CIVILIZATION
Around the outskirts of the place one can still find irrigation
canals, metates (rocks used to grind grains), and
quarry vessels for the storage of wine. |
Having
colonized the more hospitable valleys to the north and established
sea trade to the south, the Mission of Saint Gertrudis, located
in the rough central area, slowly began to decline until it was
completely abandoned in 1822.
Today
the Mission of Saint Gertrudis La Magna is still a place of worship,
surrounded by lush vegetation that it helped to plant more than
100 years ago, and still standing quietly in the middle of the desert
as a timeless ornament symbolizing the human effort to civilize
the route to California.
The Mission
of Saint Gertrudis La Magna, an example of the best of the latin
spirit.
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